♫ Always look on the bright side of life … ♪ dodo dodo dodo dodo ♪

For fear of making my time in Ghana seem full of racial stereotypes and ill communication I have compile a list of the top ten things I’ve enjoyed thus far. They are in no particular order since I long ago admitted that I’m no good at picking favourites.



1. Interesting conversations. I have not only learned a lot about Ghanaian culture from observation, but I have poked and prodded my way into some fascinating talks. Highlights include hearing from two people with very different opinions of their polygamist fathers (and mothers too, I suppose, but it seems less their fault), talking to a female friend about her attitude toward sex (pre- & post-marital, birth control, sleeping around, gender roles) and how her views vary from those of her peers, and learning about the daily struggles (stigma, isolation, inability to work, sickness) of surviving with HIV in Ghana.

2. Transit “system”. I will be the first to admit that I was so intimidated by getting around Accra when I got here. There is a steep learning curve. However the system or lack thereof serves its purpose of getting Ghanaians from point A to B. The tro tros run very frequently, are always full, have so many holes that it’s almost like A/C, know how to avoid traffic (when it’s possible), and reach far beyond the city centre. Many people live very well without a car in and out of the city. And it’s dirt cheap; a day of only riding tro tros would not exceed $3 Canadian.

3. All in the family. Once you get over the initial confusion of thinking that the whole neighbourhood is related by blood, it’s rather comforting. Perhaps I just say this because I’m not old enough to be called Mom by everyone I know. Everyone is sister, brother, auntie, ma, etc. Great bonding comes from sharing a name. Even children are passed around like they belong to all. Now don’t think this means that I’m going to do something crazy like move to an intentional community in rural Ontario. I’m just saying that I think North Americans needs to be less possessive about their belongings in general. This leads me smoothly to my next point.

4. My money is your money. Ghanaians definitely have a different attitude toward money. It is expected that if you invite anyone out (individual or group) you pay. Even on your birthday you are expected to pay unless you specify otherwise (still wondering why I did nothing on Friday :b ). It is common practice to flash (call someone and hang up after one ring if the hope they will call you back) and it works. When someone is eating, everyone is invited to partake. Even people who have lots of money by Ghanaian standards don’t have lavish lifestyles. A storey house and two cars means you’re rolling in the dough.

5. Travel. This is a given. Just look below and you can see what is within a short (and slightly terrifying) bus ride. Although I haven’t been anywhere recently I should have more to report after the Christmas holidays.

6. My Ghanaian grandma. The 70-year-old woman I live with has serious spunk. I still love my biological grandma very much, but this woman has twenty years and Africa on her side. She loves all music which she shows by shuffling her feet and twisting her pointed finger to the beat. She makes being vegetarian in Ghana seem easy. She’s always interested in learning new ways to feed me. This weekend I got guacamole. She couldn’t remember what it was called but it was some of the best I’ve ever had. Every once in a while she’ll turn to me and say, “Akua, are you OK? I mean, is everything alright with you living here?” (N.B. Akua is my Twi name since I’m born on a Wednesday and it’s pronounced Aquia.) She showed up at work one day to take me to the seamstress so she could make me an outfit for my birthday. Too bad the fabric is factory-made mustard, green, and black kente. Did I mention that she has an unhealthy love of kente cloth (true Ashanti woman) and garlic (which might explain the amazing guac)? I have learned to appreciate the wisdom of elders even more and the value of keeping them close to home.

7. Time to relax. I don’t really do that much on a daily basis and I’ve yet to be bored. I think I’m normally too preoccupied with keeping up the latest arts festival, seeing indie films, and eating out. Life is slower here and it has a lot of benefits, except when the pace is caused by bottlenecks. I have been taking time to read, write in my journal (even if I’m 2 weeks behind) and on my blog, watch the news, talk to the people around me, and correspond by email (I know this one could use improvement).

8. Horseplay. I have yet to meet someone who doesn’t joke around. No one is too cool for school. People are not only friendly and inviting; they seem to have no concern of what other will think. At the beach or the pool everyone gets their feet wet. The guys race, through around the girls, play with the kids. The best part is that most of them can’t swim so the shallow end is jammed and the deep deserted. Everywhere you go people are playing sports or dancing around, that is when they are not sleeping.

9. My Canadian sister. Joanne and I are very different, but I can’t even express how much I appreciate having her here. It’s great to have someone with whom I can explore and talk to without difficulty. She also makes me observe and ponder things I would have otherwise passed by. She’ll call me stupid assumptions I make, poor communication, and my nerdy remark. I can see a change in how I handle people after working so closely with her on our income-generating project. Sometimes it’s just great to have a buddy to go for a beer with and laugh about the day’s ridiculousness.

10. Work experience. Coming from ridiculous work environments always makes interviews tons of fun. But seriously, the scope of my projects is almost too big. I have been given so much responsibility (to set up a small-scale micro-credit scheme, improve accountability, write and implement financial management policy, to mention a few) that I often wonder how I will get it all done. The biggest challenge will be to ensure the sustainability of projects and create commitment to adherence of policies. I am gaining an understanding of the challenges faced by NGOs, doing business in developing countries, the practicalities and flexibility of micro-credit, and managing in a money-tight, funder-dependent environment. I could go on but I’ll spare those of you who I’ve already lost.

Whew, that was a long one. I wanted to talk about all the music and dancing, but it didn’t quite make the cut. I guess there will have to be a part deux in another few months.