We got to know Cape Coast (and one restaurant in particular) quite well. We even encountered the same lampshade (small yellow one with beaded decoration) on several occasion. First it was a hat, then a Frisbee, and finally a hot potato; I couldn’t believe it followed us all around town. The best part was that my mom and I both noticed it on our own (I guess that’s where I get my keen sense of observation from). The city was a great place to be situated with lots of vegetarian food and easy access to surrounding towns, Kakum National Park, and beach resorts.
We arrived at Kakum early in the morning in an attempt to see some wildlife. Quite quickly we learned why the animals stay away from the trafficked parts of the park. The canopy walk is scary and people vocalize their fear and excitement. I definitely thought I would be fine crossing a wood-and-rope bridge 40 metres in the air. I was convinced the walkway was lower with each person that stepped on behind me. It took me three before I worked up the courage to look down. I pretended to be strong to help my mom get across. She had enough after the first one. After recovering we went on a 2-hour “jungle hike”. Our guide was great at explaining all the bizarre trees (that started to all look the same) and their medicinal purposes. The highlight of our tour was a story about dwarfs that live in the wood wherever a certain tree grows. They cry out like babies in the night and have backwards feet. Apparently they turn to stone at night, which would explain why my guide had only heard the cries and stories of sightings. He was really convinced though.
Elmina was a very picturesque town, although probably the worst for child beggars. It holds a castle that was built by the Portuguese, added to by the Dutch, and used primary for slave trading by the British. There is also an impressive fort (built on the hill inland by the Dutch because they wanted to avoid being capture in the same way they got the spot) and several stone houses (built by soldiers and priest who marries local women). These buildings are in stark contrast to the colours and activity of the fishing harbour. We got some great views from the castle, but felt a little like my shameful ancestors. The locals seemed to have returned to their roots in spite of the atrocity around them. We learned the captives were essentially tested for fitness by living with little food, ventilation, water, and facilities. The most appalling parts of our tour were the dungeons and female slave yards. Let’s just say that anyone who misbehaved didn’t last and there are many mulattos in the area. I did appreciate (not to be mistaken with condoning) that the tour guide mentioned the involvement of the chiefs and other African middlemen. We were also told that a study determined Africans were harder workers than Native Americans, thus causing the mass trade of Africans. I couldn’t help but think that maybe the Natives were just smarter and acted lazy.
Cape Coast Castle had many of the same undertones, the big difference being that it was built specifically for slave trade. The living quarters were much deeper, darker, and danker. The Door of No Return/Door of Return was a big door (the Elmina one was made about the size of me when they went from trading goods to people) that opened onto the fishing harbour. It was quite bizarre to see such regular activity on the other side the dark caverns of the castle. My comedic relief came in the form of a Scandinavian man that looked and dressed just like my mom. On several occasions I mistakenly made a comment to him and people in his party did the same to my mom. I seriously regret not getting a picture.
It was easy to notice that people in Ghana have more respect for elders. Everyone addressed my mom as “Mommy” (which my mom even liked … I tried not to get jealous) and she got “Grandma” once. Even teenage boys talked to her before looking at me. I appreciated having her aura of reverance around me for a little while.
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